Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
